We think the Jaguar XJS looks quite the opposite of plain in this fabulous YouTube video we found. It’s visual tributes like these that really help to validate it as a beautiful classic car. We hope you enjoy watching the video as much as we did.
As you know, one of the biggest potential dangers to your classic car’s wellbeing is rust. Rust can quickly take hold of a vehicle, particularly in the winter months, making your prized possession unsafe to drive.
Hot on the heels of our blog post all about rust last month, this video shows you how we were able to transform and restore this XJS Convertible back to its former glory. After rebuilding the rust decayed doors, repairing all the holes and straightening the panels, we applied our specialist rust treatment procedure to all the hidden structural box sections. We hope you enjoy the results!
Let KWE cars ensure your classic Jaguar doesn’t rust away this winter. For more information visit our website or call us on +44 (0) 1635 30030.
New for our blog this month, Theresa has carefully chosen ten of the best Jag XJS cars currently for sale from a number of different websites. She’s selected the cars based on their potential to provide good value – whether for every day driving or as investment opportunities.
As we haven’t viewed the cars in person (except for the two that have passed through our workshop), we’d recommend a full professional assessment to check for rust problems etc. before parting with any money. Don’t forget to look at Jaguar XJS for sale from KWE too.
10. 1995 4.0 coupe with 85,000 miles in red. Last but not least this late coupe is available from Aberdare, in South Wales for £6,500.
If any of these cars tempt you into making a purchase, we’d love to carry out any upgrades and improvements you require. For a detailed look at the options that go beyond our basic restoration services, visit our website.
Alternatively check out Jaguar XJS for sale from KWE
One of the biggest potential dangers to your classic car’s wellbeing is rust. Rust can cause the structure of any car to become weakened and unstable, making it unsafe to drive and liable to fail MoT testing. This build up of corrosion usually progresses from invisible areas until it becomes visible through the paintwork or is spotted during an underside inspection – by which time remedial action can be very expensive.
Rust forms when moisture and air come into contact with unprotected steel. This process is hastened by the presence of sulphur dioxide from the atmosphere and ionic compounds such as road salt. Read these tips on how to ensure that your classic car doesn’t turn into a rust bucket.
Rust is often more likely to take hold of your vehicle if it’s dirty and mud is allowed to accumulate underneath. When washing your car pay special attention to the wheel arches and sill ends. When using your vehicle in the winter months, mud combined with road salt can become trapped within crevices around the wheel wells and underbody. Mud tends to retain moisture, therefore contributing greatly to rusting.
The best cleaning method is to use a concentrated spray from a garden hose to dislodge mud from inside the wheel arch lips, and the sill ends. A high pressure washer (e.g. Karcher) is too powerful and can lift off the protective underseal. Ideally, keep an eye out for exposed and rusty steel in these areas, get them thoroughly dry, prime with zinc-rich paint and apply brushing underseal such as Waxoyl underbody sealant.
Make sure you inspect the whole of the vehicle’s structure, both topside and underside. If the surface of the original protective coating has deteriorated over wider areas, it’s best to remove all the old underseal and re-coat the whole surface to provide long-term protection.
Moisture tends to accumulate within enclosed sections around the vehicle such as doors, sills, chassis sections and strengthening areas, eventually resulting in rusting from within. Due to access problems, it can be near-impossible to apply protective paint within such cavities, but rust-resisting wax or oil-based fluids can be introduced, via drilled and plugged holes, ideally under high pressure from a special spray gun. This can be tricky, so it is recommended that you contact a reputable rust protection specialist such as KWE who will be able to do this for you.
Some people believe that you shouldn’t use your classic car in the winter because of the unfavourable weather conditions and salt on the roads. In reality, leaving your vehicle unused in the winter can do more harm than good. Ideally, you should aim to start your car at least once a month, taking it for a short drive in dry conditions to bring the engine up to full operating temperature have the aircon on and using the brakes frequently This will ensure that the brake discs remain rust-free, and moving parts remain freed-up. It is important to get the engine thoroughly warm so as to evaporate the harmful acidic moisture that can build up in under-used engines. We advise keeping the aircon on all year round to reduce leakage from the pressure seals.
Storage of your classic car is very important, particularly in the winter. The best place to store your vehicle is within a dry and airy barn, garage or large carport on a concrete or other dry base. Wood or brick garages are preferable to pre-cast concrete units, which tend to ‘sweat’ in very cold conditions. The objective is to keep air flowing around the car, but not let rain fall on it. There should be no damp coming up from the ground, so parking the car on grass or earth is not advised. One way to avoid the damp problem associated with storage is to use an inflatable plastic tent, with fans to keep air moving inside, or a portable frame garage tent. Disconnect the battery (see also our battery care article) and, if the car is under cover, open the windows a little to keep the inside aired.
We do not recommend full body covers outdoors for long term storage outside because the paint is likely to be damaged by wind-induced abrasion and can create micro-blistering in the paint. Any damp under the car will be trapped and start causing rust and mould to grow. However, especially with convertibles, we recommend use of a cap or roof cover which just covers the roof. If the car is stored indoors then a lightweight indoor cover is recommended to keep the dust off. Be aware of rodent damage – mice frequently chew through cables and hoses on undisturbed cars. We recommend placing several (pet-safe) mousetraps around the car.
To ensure that you aren’t leaving the rusting of your classic car to chance, why not speak to the experts? KWE are very experienced in preventing and remedying rust, and have developed techniques which make our cars last a lot longer than average. We know where to look for rust, and offer both cavity wax injection for box sections, and full underbody sealant renewal.
We recommend repeating this inspection and proofing process every second year. This regime vastly reduces the chance of further rusting. If the customer specifies a bare metal re-spray it is then possible to inspect any previous topside problems and rectify them if necessary.
We’ll ensure that your classic car doesn’t rust away. Download our pdf article on the subject: CavityWaxInjection for more information on our cavity wax rust protection, service or call us on +44 (0) 1635 30030.
Engine oil viscosity is a measure of how runny it is, thus indicating its ability to coat and protect metal bearing surfaces from rubbing together metal-to-metal. Oil viscosity is quantified by a number, usually from 0 (very thin) to 90 (very thick). But this viscosity is inversely proportional to temperature, so hot oil is runnier and less able to protect big gaps as found in older engine designs, and cold oil is heavy and sluggish, draining some engine power and again reducing protection. So a fixed-grade oil has to be thick enough to protect the engine at maximum temperature but this means it will be very thick at cold temperatures, making the engine very hard to start. Cold climate drivers sometimes have to resort to heating the engine with a paraffin heater before they can be started!
The results from our recent customer survey helped us to realise that many of you desired a more regular newsletter.
As a result, we’re going to increase the frequency of our newsletters, and concentrate on email distribution to ensure that everyone receives our regular monthly updates straight to their inbox.
This appears to fulfil what most of our customers and contacts want, but we do apologise to those who appreciated the former printed versions.
We hope you will find these electronic newsletters to be a much faster, easier way to keep up to date with our activities and related classic car news.
A few news highlights from the classic car industry over the last couple of months…
According to Classic Driver, six market experts have identified the Jaguar XJS as one of the best classic cars to invest in.
A grand total of 115,330 Jaguar XJS cars were built over a 21-year span from 1975 to 1996, of which 80 per cent went overseas. Even though it has now been out of production for 18 years, all parts are still available to service the car.
The experts suggest that cars worth looking out for include those with a limited production run, the V12s built between 1975 and 1979, and the 3.6 manual cabriolet.
The first of Jaguar’s new, hand-built lightweight E-Types was unveiled earlier this month. The production, announced in May this year, will be limited to only six models. The cars have been designed to complement the 12 original E-Types that were produced in 1962, bringing the total number of genuine lightweights to 18, the number originally intended.
The new E-Types will be hand built at Jaguar’s new Heritage customer workshop facility, located on the former Browns Lane factory. All the recreation models will feature the famous aluminium body panels that made the lightweight vehicle so unique at the time.
Each of the new E-Types will be powered by a recreation model of the original XK-based straight-six engine, with an aluminium block, a ‘wide angle’ aluminium cylinder head, and a dry slump lubrications system.
Prices for the new E-Types have not yet been released by Jaguar; however, it is expected that the models will cost well over £1 million, with the first car expected to be released at the beginning of next year.
A dentist who amassed Britain’s largest classic car collection has sold the entire £100 million fleet to Jaguar Land Rover. Dr James Hull, 53, spent tens of millions of pounds filling a number of warehouses in Hertfordshire with his impressive 543 classic cars from the past 80 years.
The company’s interest in the collection stemmed from the fact that it contained 130 Jaguar or Swallow Sidecar vehicles. Models include early Swallow Sidecars and Swallow coach built Austin Sevens, plus a range of pre-war SS models, seven XK 120s, C- and D-Types, an XKSS, eight E-Types, 30 classic Jaguar ‘Mark’ model saloons, plus 19 XJS models and over 20 XJ saloons.
Although Jaguar Land Rover is not thought to have paid the £100 million the collection was valued at, the deal was welcomed by Dr Hull who described the new owners as “the perfect custodian”. The Jaguars will now be housed in a purpose-built factory in Coventry.
A Ferrari 250GTO Berlinetta has become the most expensive car ever to be purchased at auction, fetching a staggering £22,843,633 at Bonham’s Quail Lodge, California on 14 August.
As predicted, the ex-Fabrizio Violati 1962 model knocked the Mercedes-Benz Grand Prix racer sold by Bonhams at Goodwood in 2013 off the top spot; some pundits, however, expected the vehicle to collect a higher price.
The sports prototype received a huge cheer from the audience as it took centre stage. The sale took less than 15 minutes as Robert Brooks conducted the bidding battle between an American buyer and overseas rival.
At the same auction a Ferrari 250 Mille Miglia also fetched an impressive sum, selling for $8.8 million. A grand total of £39,522,440 changed hands during the sale of the Maranello Rosso Collection.